Singapore

One of the few sovereignties in that world that is both a country and a city at the same time (there are two others, Vatican City and Monaco), Singapore is also known as the “Lion City” because of its original name, Singapura, which means “lion city” in Malay. Before coming here, we had heard so much about its futuristic skyline and rich history, but what you can’t quite wrap your head around until you see and experience it for yourself is its stunning blend of diverse cultures, its combination of tradition with innovation, and its natural beauty.

Our Singapore Itinerary:

Day 1: Arrive in Singapore

We arrived into Singapore feeling relaxed and at ease after the amazing Emirates business class experience (see the Dubai post for more on this). Stepping out of Changi Airport (more on this amazing airport later), we were struck first by the humidity even at 10:00pm in mid-December. It had to still be in the high 80s Farenheit (low 30s Celsius) with aroun 80% humidity. After living in this kind of weather in Florida for 5 years, we have to say that we did not miss it.

As we made our way to immigration and baggage claim we also began to recognize how organized and clean everything was. Just to provide some context for Singapore’s approach to maintaining the cleanliness of this bustling city/state, chewing gum is illegal and you can be fined for it. Their whole immigration set up was one of the easiest we have ever been through. You have to register in the country’s system a few days prior, so they already have your information and an image of you. We had thought that Dubai was easy to get through, we walked right through a few digital gates and we were done. Practically no waiting!

We took the short 30 minute ride from the airport to the city center, checked into the hotel, had a bite to eat and went to bed early so we. could explore the next day.

Day 2: Exploring the Singapore Marina, The Shopping Malls and Dinner at Atlas

Jeremy and Valerie in front of Marina Bay

We made our way out of the hotel after a slow start to the morning and walked toward the Marina where we got our first real look at Singapore. The entire marina looks like something out of the future. We had to pause for a few minutes to just take in the entire vista. From the Singapore Flyer (ferris wheel) on one side, to the Flower Dome and Cloud Forrest in the distance, the Marina Bay Sands hotel—you have likely seen a picture of this somewhere, it is the structure topped with a boat-shaped SkyPark—to the downtown skyline, and finally panning all the way around to the Merlion (a giant half lion, half fish fountain emptying into the marina itself, standing at almost 30 feet tall). It is a lot to take in. The heat and humidity were a bit intense, and as it does about half the year in Singapore, the tropical rain was coming and going.

Panorama of Marina Bay with the Marina Bay Sand hotel and the ArtScience Museum on the left and the city skyline on the right.

What this forced us to do was make our way to one of the city’s many indoor shopping centers. As we made our way around from one block to the next, it became apparent—there is an entire city inside and underneath the outside world. Further, there was every kind of shop, food stall, restaurant, pharmacy, etc. that sells anything that you might ever need. We quickly realized their purpose beyond just commerce. It’s so hot and humid and rainy most days, these massive mazes of air conditioned shopping and dining were a way to escape the elements, while still being productive in your daily life. It was such a simple, yet effective solution!

One of Jeremy’s former colleagues recommended that we go to ATLAS for dinner and cocktails. This place did not disappoint. It is on the ground floor of a hotel and is like walking back in time to the height of the roaring 20’s and art deco decor. Everywhere you looked there was something interesting to see. They have a really extensive craft cocktail program that did not disappoint from the traditional to more modern inspired drinks, there is something for everyone. Word to the wise, it’s not cheap. Make sure you do the exchange rate in your head before ordering. Jeremy wasn’t paying attention and ended up with a $150 Negroni! The drink was very good, but that was an expensive lesson to learn. The food and the service were also quite good, so we do recommend getting a reservation here if you find yourself in Singapore, but (like most of the city as we found) be prepared to open your wallets.

Day 3: HOHO Bus and Joseph

As we do, we booked a ride on the Hop-On/Hop-Off bus (HOHO) on this day to get a better sense of the sprawling city. There’s a lot to see and do with in the urban center, but for you more outdoorsy types, the naturally beautiful outskirts where all manner of outdoor sports and activities might be more up your alley. We took the route that explored some of the more diverse neighborhoods so that we could learn more about the history that brought so many cultures together and explore some of the unique cuisines.

Before sharing a few highlights of the HOHO journey, another interesting aspect of of Singapore is that it has four official languages—Malay, Tamill, Singaporean Mandarin and English. So as native English speakers it is really easy to get around. We even found some Western creature comforts! One that Jeremy in particular was excited about that was near the hotel, an honest to god Carl’s Jr! They have Hardee’s in Florida, but it’s not the same, so it had been a number of years since he had a Double Western cheeseburger with criss cut fries. He was very happy for dinner that night.

We digress, so back to the HOHO experience. While this diversity is highlighted everywhere, there are four main neighborhoods where cultures that have contributed to Singapore’ multicultural heritage are celebrated:

Chinatown:

Chinatown retains Singapore’s Chinese heritage while also showcasing religious sites for other communities, including mosques and Hindu temples.

Kampong Glam:

This is a hub of Singapore's multicultural identity, rich in history, craftspeople, creative trades, culinary experiences, and a diverse community, offering a unique glimpse into the city's heritage.

Little India:

The area is known for its vibrant colors, traditional architecture and a hub of Indian culture, cuisine, and community life.

Katong/Joo Chiat:

This area, including Joo Chiat Road, East Coast, and Katong, displays architectural influences from Britain, Portugal, China, France, and Malaysia.

As we rode around on the second level of the bus, which in hindsight was a mistake because it was blazing hot, you really feel like you are being transported to another land as you see the shift in languages on the signs, architecture smells coming from the restaurants and temples/shrines for worship. This made it one of the most memorable HOHO experiences we have had on our travels.

Our time on the HOHO was cut short, but for good reason. We were in contact with a long time friend of Valerie’s, Josef, from her days teaching in English in Slovakia. Josef is Slovak, but now lives in Singapore with his partner, and teaches at one of its many international schools. It was also an opportunity to experience a Singaporean institution, Long Bar, which is in an old, very beautiful hotel called The Raffles Hotel. Long Bar’s true claim to fame is that it is known as the birthplace of the Singapore Sling cocktail. We had a lovely afternoon catching up with Josef and learning about living in Singapore. It was awesome to give an old friend a hug.

Day 4: Exploring The Cloud Forest and The Flower Dome

Day four’s main focus was on a visit to Gardens by the Bay. The 260 acres of walking trails, trees, “zen-like” sitting areas, and streams is essentially a love letter to the earth and our natural world, with an underlying message of sustainability and preservation. In the middle of it are are these towering Supertrees, which looked like something out of a sci-fi movie. It is all really awe inspiring, and everywhere you look is another post card-worthy view or photo opportunity.

Gardens by the Bay: In the distance are the SuperTrees, the Flower Dome (dome on the left) and the Cloud Forest (dome on the right).

Jeremy and Valerie in front of the waterfall in the Cloud Forest

On the edge of the Gardens are the Flower Dome and Cloud Forest, two massive conservatories filled with exotic plants and misty waterfalls. Standing next to the Cloud Forest’s indoor waterfall was both refreshing and impressive, with yet another interesting perspective looking back out at the city. More importantly, they are both air conditioned so it was yet another way to beat the heat. 😂

Day 5: Dinner at Cé La Vie

Most of this day was spent catching up on work, blogging, finances, etc., which is not all that exciting, but necessary. Our main outing on this day was going to the Marina Bay Sands hotel. We had seen it from a far and stopped into the hotel lobby bar for a quick drink to see the inside, but we were now going to get our first chance to see the boat-shaped rooftop restaurant, Cé La Vie, and SkyPark.

Our destination was Cé La Vie for a sunset dinner where we could take in yet another amazing view of the city on our last night. It does not disappoint, especially once the sun is down and the city lights up. So many colors highlighting its unique skyline and surrounding attractions. The meal was also one of the best that we had while in Singapore, so we would recommend it for the food as much as for the views. If you time it right and are lucky enough to get a table on the “starboard” (the right if you are facing the bow) side of the boat you can catch something even more fun when the SuperTrees lit up in a dazzling display of colors during the Garden Rhapsody light show.

Gardens by the Bay at night from the top of the Marina Bay Sands hotel.

Day 6: Fly to Perth, Australia

Jeremy dragged us out of bed and had us in a cab to the airport like four hours before our flight because there was one more attraction he was dying to see. Before we get to that, we need to reiterate how amazingly efficient the Changi Airport is. We checked in and made our way to what we thought was just the outgoing immigration check, which was just a simple digital gate that scanned your passport and took your picture. Bing! Once through you start looking for the security check point, like any airport. Nope! There isn’t one (technically). You’re in and off to your gate. There is a quick bag screen and metal detector just in front of each of the gate’s waiting areas, but can we tell you how much more streamlined this is? It cuts what feels like 4-5 passport checks and screenings into two simple ones. So good!

What Jeremy was really wanting to see was the famous Jewel complex. It sits just out front of the international terminal (before security). Its centerpiece is a towering indoor waterfall and lush gardens all surrounded by—you guessed it—indoor shopping. It seems weird to be excited about something at the airport, but it is like nothing else you have seen in an airport, shopping mall or otherwise. A truly unique structure. Do yourself a favor, arrive early to the airport, grab a bite to eat, and people watch in the waterfall and gardens area. It’s a great way to chill out before the stresses of air travel.

The waterfall and gardens in the Jewel complex at Changi Airport.

Singapore’s climate and price tag were a bit rough, in our experience. That said, it was a fascinating experience with its mix of the new and the old under a blanket of multiculturalism. It is an example of how distinct cultures all coexisting together can lead to creativity and innovation.

Cheers to Singapore! Where To Next?

United Arab Emirates | Dubai